In Search of the Perfect Slice
Not to overdo the topic of pizza, but as a New York defector I must say that I've only once had pizza outside of the city that falls under the category of "tolerable."Today at work, eight boxes of the stuff arrived to feed interns, editors and ad reps alike. This week's issue is a triple press run, which means that nobody can leave the office and everybody is in a bad mood. It also means that we get free lunch.
I was thrilled. I love pizza. But in true west-of-the-Hudson form, the dough-and-cheese combo failed to satisfy my picky Manhattan tastebuds. The crust tasted too much like bread; the cheese was just, well, wrong. The slices were barely larger than my hands, and my attempt to fold one in half resulted in an avalance of toppings onto my desk. Also, not to pick a bone, but just because we live in New Mexico, must we throw chili peppers on everything?
The only place out here where I have ever had a good slice was a little joint in Colorado Springs called Boriello Brothers. The owner, naturally, was from Brooklyn, and the place was decorated in Yankee paraphernalia. I frequented Boriello Brothers during my college days, and it served a relic to the two things I missed most from my hometown: good pizza and good baseball.
Boriello Brothers pizza, like its New York counterpart, did what all good pizza should do: it folded neatly and evenly; its cheese was thin and perfect; the bottom never cracked in half and the crust didn't taste like a stale bagel. It was no deep-dish monstrosity like the poor excuse for pizza that Chicago touts and its slices were large enough to be a meal.
It was just good pizza, plain and simple. And trust me, that can be a hard thing to find.
6 Comments:
Amen. Good pizza is hard to find.
I'll take a simple, tomato, olive oil, basil thin crust over a triple barbecue something-or-other any day.
Mmmmmm simplicity. How rockin'
Aren't you a New York "defector?" Dave Dinkins was a New York "deflector."
Now, onwards to the food. You're spot on re: the pizza. The fold is the thing! My one disagreement, albeit a mild one, is your characterization of Chicago pizza. While they are truly two different animals, both NY and Chicago both offer good pizza...they just work differently. Same thing goes with hot dogs...NY has Sabretts, Chicago offers something entirely different, but pretty good nonetheless. (And you just can't beat a hot dog bun with poppy seeds!) Regional variation is a good thing...as long as you begin and end by acknowledging the king!
Good post...food as nostalgia is a favorite theme!
My personal favorite comes from Waterbury CT. Bacco's, a little Italian pizza joint known for it's home made sweet sausage, spicy sauce, and thin slice. Neither New York or Chicago can live up to the taste of Bacco's.
I just went to another pizza place. The pizza was okay, but one of the people working there was beautiful.
Made it worth the pizza.
I stopped reading when you celebrated "Yankee paraphernelia." What is that, Sheffield and Giambi's used needles?
another excellent post, as usual.
I once ate at an Italian restaurant in Moab that boasted "the best pizza in southeastern Utah." I doubt that there could be any scarier words to a New Yorker.
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